How to Use This Planner

Start by measuring your tree. Wrap a tape around the trunk at 4.5 feet above the ground. That is your DBH (diameter at breast height). Estimate the total height by comparison to a known object or using a simple stick method. For lean, stand back and estimate the angle from vertical. A tree that looks slightly off-center is about 5 to 10 degrees. A tree that leans noticeably is 15 or more.

Next, look at your site. Which way does the ground slope downhill? Is there a building, fence, or power line within twice the tree's height? That distance matters because a falling tree can reach farther than you expect, especially on a slope or with wind pushing it.

Pick a preset that matches your situation, or enter each value by hand. The planner updates as you go. The recommended direction tries to work with the lean and slope while avoiding obstacles. The notch angle is set to 70 degrees for an open-face cut, which gives good directional control. The hinge width is calculated at 10% of your trunk diameter. For a 14-inch tree, that is about 1.4 inches. Too thin and the hinge snaps too early, causing the tree to kick back. Too thick and the tree may not fall where you want.

Check the risk badge. Green means conditions look manageable. Yellow means proceed with extra caution. Red means you should call a professional. The warnings list updates based on your inputs. If your tree leans more than 20 degrees toward a house, the planner will tell you to stop and get help.

Print the plan and take it with you. Review it with anyone helping. Make sure everyone knows the escape routes before the first cut. If anything changes (wind picks up, you find rot in the trunk), stop and re-enter the values.

Common Mistakes

Cutting the back cut before the notch is fully seated. The notch must be complete and the saw out before you start the back cut. If you rush this, the tree can twist or kick.

Ignoring wind direction. A 20 mph wind can push a falling tree 10 to 15 degrees off course. If the wind pushes toward your obstacle, wait for calmer weather.

Standing behind the tree. Always escape at 45 degrees to the sides of the fall line, never directly behind. A tree can kick back over the stump with deadly force.

Not checking for rot. Tap the trunk with a mallet. A solid tree rings. A hollow one thumps. If you hear a thump or see fungal growth, the tree may not hinge properly. Call an arborist.

Felling alone. Always have at least one other person nearby who can call for help if something goes wrong.

How Wind Changes the Safe-Felling Window

Wind is the most unpredictable factor in tree felling. Light wind (under 10 mph) is generally safe and can even help by pushing the tree in your intended direction. Moderate wind (10 to 20 mph) narrows your safe window. You need to be more precise with your notch and hinge, and your escape routes need to account for possible drift.

Strong wind (over 20 mph) is a stop signal for most DIY fellers. The planner will flag this in yellow or red depending on other factors. Professional arborists may still work in these conditions, but they use rigging, cranes, or wedges to control the fall.

Wind direction relative to your intended fall line matters. If the wind pushes the tree toward your target direction, that is helpful. If it pushes sideways, the tree may fall at an angle you did not plan for. If it pushes against your intended direction, the tree may sit back on the hinge or kick. In any of these cases, the safest choice is to wait.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my tree leans toward the house?

Use the "Lean Toward Structure" preset. The planner will show you why a straight drop is risky and may recommend a professional. If the lean is light (under 10 degrees) and the tree is small, a controlled directional notch can sometimes redirect the fall. Never fell a heavily leaned tree toward a structure on your own.

How does wind affect the plan?

Wind over 15 mph adds significant risk. The planner reduces the safe-felling window and widens the escape arc. If wind is pushing toward your intended fell direction, that helps. If it pushes sideways or against your plan, wait for calmer conditions.

What is hinge wood and why does the width matter?

The hinge is the strip of wood left between your notch and back cut. It guides the tree as it falls. Too thin and it snaps early (called a barber chair). Too thick and the tree kicks back. The planner estimates hinge width at roughly 10% of the trunk diameter.

Can I use this for large trees?

The planner works for any diameter, but trees over 24 inches DBH with any lean or nearby targets should be felled by a professional. The planner will flag high-risk combinations in red.

What if I have obstacles in multiple directions?

Add the closest or most dangerous one first. The planner uses the single worst obstacle to calculate the safe arc. If you have obstacles in multiple directions, consider that a sign you need a professional with rigging equipment.